Everything you need to know about Keshi and Seed pearls

Pearls have a special aura and tenderness and are highly valued gemstones. Their translucence and lustre make them unique - the deeper its lustre, the greater its value. Saltwater pearls are referred to as Oriental pearls, and those produced by freshwater molluscs are known as Freshwater pearls. More pearl types to know include Keshi and Seed pearls.

What are Seed pearls?

Pearls from both seawater and freshwater are called Seed pearls. They are associated with purity, chastity, and delicacy. According to the World Jewellery Foundation, Seed pearls are naturally produced without human intervention. They are smaller than 3mm and allow for intricate detailing on fine jewellery pieces. Most importantly, they can be easily incorporated into a design, unlike the large statement pearls, which are known as Cultured pearls. Many pieces of Victorian jewellery showcased Seed pearls as the perfect accent to larger gemstones on rings, necklaces and brooches. 

Seed pearls first became popular in the late Georgian period, however, the real growth in popularity culminated at the beginning of the Victorian era from 1837 to 1860. The rapid industrialisation of Europe created a middle-class who could afford such jewellery. The use of Seed pearls during the art deco period from 1920 to 1930 included adorning lavish bags along with other precious gemstones like emeralds or rubies.

What are Keshi pearls?

The term Keshi first originated in Japan to describe that country’s natural Seed pearls. These pearls resemble small seeds. Thus, they were named ‘keshi’, which means poppy seed in Japanese. Later, when the Japanese began to culture Akoya pearls, the name Keshi was given to by-products created after the rejection of the bead nucleus. Keshi pearls can be of any size, depending on the mollusc where they grow. Akoya Keshi pearls are 2mm or less in size, while South Sea and Tahitian Keshi Pearls are usually 4mm.

A Keshi pearl can have one of two origins - it can be a natural pearl that occurs within a cultured oyster host, or it can be cultured where the implantation process is performed to produce baroque shaped Keshi pearls. Lately, there have been debates and differing opinions on whether Keshi pearls should be classified as natural. However, Keshi has gained prominence for being the only seawater-cultured pearl without a nucleus inserted by mankind. 

Their wide and fascinating range of shapes offers jewellery pieces a sense of exclusivity and intriguing designs. From creamy and silvery whites to varying cool colours, Keshi pearls come in every possible colour.

If you are interested in having your own bespoke pearl jewellery piece made, contact our atelier on +65 6733 4100 to book an appointment or email bespoke@thejewelbox.com.